Arduino + breadboard power supply MB102.
Noob question I know, but how do I connect the power supply to the arduino? 5v to 5v and GND to GND? Or vin? Or the other first pin above res?
Help?
@Condor

Gnd to gnd, 5v to vin i guess, but dont arduinos get power from usb?

Actually I feel like it'd be better to remove my answer because when you asked about "getting assistance in learning electronics", I never expected you to have implied to "become my personal Google". I honestly thought that such stuff was limited to Facebook users in my message requests / page inboxes only.

Just found my answer lol

I don't need an external power supply since I can use a 9v or 12v charger directly with Arduino, which will give more power than the MB102 power supply...

so... I can use the MB to power non Arduino stuff or the Nanos and a 12v 1A for the Unos.

Had to watch like 30 videos, search pages, forums, till I finally learned this in a forum lol.

Still will need to know when I move to the Nanos and I can't find shit about this module, only Reviews and power the board without an Arduino... and one video powering a nano. I'm only afraid of connecting it wrong and Puff, there goes an Arduino...

I'm sorry @Condor that you feel like that, You're the only one I know so far that really understands this stuff and lot more then I need to know. My biggest problem about searching is to know what to search...

Going back to Arduino Playground, there must be some info there... Thanks anyway.

@GyroGearloose I also work a lot with electronics in my free time, what exactly is your problem? Maybe I can help :)

@sharktits 5V 300mA from USB, If I pull too much it burns the chip.

Also has a Jack for an external power supply, from 7v to 20v. What I didn't know Is that thought that jack I can get a lot more Amps , so I can power small circuits without extra Chips to protect the Arduino

@GyroGearloose be careful when connecting a supply that's higher voltage than 5V. The Uno has a 5V regulator in series with its RAW pin, but like all regulators it's inefficient and meant to be used by unregulated supplies like batteries. A 5V switched mode power supply should be preferred, and that can be connected to VCC.

Also the Arduino itself can only reliably source a few mA. To power big loads you'll need to control it through a power transistor if DC, and a triac or relay if AC.

@Condor Lost me at triacs lol

Ok... Correct me if I'm wrong. If I give 12v 2A to the jack would I be able to take like 1.8A? Or you mean that I should also only power 5V in the Jack?

@GyroGearloose in that case forget what I said about AC and don't use it until somewhere next year when you thoroughly understand DC circuits.

A supply may be able to source 2A but it will never actually source that much current unless the load asks for it. An Arduino itself will only take 20mA at most and is only able to supply about 100mA at best (with further limit of ~20mA placed on each individual pin). So no the Arduino can't source 1.8A on its own. You can however control the gate of a transistor with the Arduino and then power your load through that transistor.

@404response Well, If you have the patience for me...

I'm a complete noob, know a little bit of programming, have lots of Ideas but just started with Arduino... I'm on sick leave and been messing around with DIY, scrapping, and Arduino, depending on my state on that day.

And cause of a burn out I've been having memory problems, meaning, not easy getting the basics...

I have two situations that came out of this conversation.

What Amps should I power the Arduino If I use a 9V or 12V power supply? (Arduino Playground only talks 12V up to 1A, but on another forum, a guy was using 12V 5A and pulling the power from the Arduino to steppers for hours).

Also, I got 5 nice MB102 power supply that fits in the breadboards, can get 500ma extra, 5V, or 3,3V which can be useful in prototyping, but I'm afraid to where do I connect the + ... After that, If I burn the Uno for pulling too much current I won't care, but damaging for connecting to the wrong pin...

@Condor I see, Like using an IRF520 or ULN2003A... So no need for an extra power supply, better to really just use the 5V USB and not pull too much directly. Thanks.

I'm almost ready to start my first CNC, so power management is important.

Reading this again:

https://rugged-circuits.com/10-ways...

I'll just print it tomorrow lol

@GyroGearloose a CNC of all things? I have to say, that's.. very ambitious, especially if this is your first project. Anyway yeah you'd use a MOSFET or a Darlington transistor or something like that to power your bigger load. Be sure to put a resistor (100 ohm or something like that) between the Arduino and the gate as well, as you don't want your Arduino to end up sourcing too much current into the transistor.

Ok, finally found it... 5V to 5V or 3.3V to 3.3V but more for micros and Nanos without USB port or DC jack. That's why I barely found any info for the Nanos.

Guess they won't go to waste, I also have Lipo USB chargers and one module shield for one Nano, but I think that All the Nanos and Micros I bought have a USB port.

Can still use them for lots of stuff, but I'll follow Condor advice and not charge anything powerful directly.

@Condor Thanks for the 100Ohm tip, already had forgotten about that.

Well, I'm a CNC Operator... With a CNC I can build new tools, and I'll also make a CNC + 3D printer hybrid someday after I get the practice...

I'm joining a lot of projects, Latter when I'm good enough with Arduino and Electronics, I'll make videos and tutorials for an extra buck, make machines, and sell pieces that I make... Or Even the machines.

Can't learn programming or improve while I don't get better, so I turned to DIY stuff...

Almost did a 3 Axis conventional today with a 2 Axis table I bought specifically to be the table of one of the CNCs, Till I found exactly what I wanted... My dad has so many tools that he doesn't know what he has...

@GyroGearloose I was part of a team that built a CNC in college, one thing's for sure - you need a hefty power supply, powerful motor drivers, and powerful motors. And a big spindle to run them tools. There's no way an Arduino is going to power that (though we did use an Uno to control it). We had beefy NEMA 34 stepper motors (it wasn't an industrial grade CNC, 34 is actually on the small side), Leadshine DM542 stepper drivers, and a fairly large SMPS (don't remember the thing's output ratings).

@GyroGearloose a LiPo charge controller puts out between ~3V and 4.2V. It isn't suitable to power a device that wants exactly 3.3V. You'll want to use a 3.3V supply for that.. how you get that voltage depends on the project.

The Nano however works with 5V logic, which again I've found with only a little bit of Googling. The Micro on the other hand uses either 5V or 3.3V depending on the exact model you've bought. Personally I'd stick with 5V boards whenever possible.

@GyroGearloose I'd also say that the Ruggeduino shouldn't be a device of choice for operators and designers. I particularly cringed at their #4 "fix" where a Schotthy diode would be the first solution to come to mind due to its fast switching and low voltage drop - but that voltage drop is still nonzero, and it can be solved by using a MOSFET which Afrotechmods covered in one of his videos.

Regardless of protection features, an engineer shouldn't need any other than safety gloves (when voltages become dangerous) and common sense. Hence why I'd advise against the Ruggeduino. It's like insurance for engineers which moves away liability, research and encourages reckless behavior. None of which should appeal any engineer.

@RememberMe yes it can...
Your thinking on professional CNCs, but a cnc can be as small as a table of 40x40x1(mm) and using CD-Rom steppers... And can be a called up and down...
I've already seen a crazy Russian who did a CNC made of wood (table 2x1 meters), big motors and a arduino mega... The arduino only gives the orders, so can be used as a controller no matter the size...
Of course I do not want to mill steel... Aluminum, max wood (wood is actually a lot harder then aluminum)

@Condor well that's one reason to use the breed board power supply , as it can output both 5v and 3.3v at the same time...
But yes, I'm mostly using Power banks and battery packs , only got the lipo controllers yesterday, so I can finally do some gadgets :p
First house gadget must be a smoke detector... Also got those yesterday.
Well in two days I got most of the missing items lol

@GyroGearloose smoke detectors should have circuits readily available. As far as I know they exploit a little bit of radioactive material that allows a tiny bit of current to flow until there's an excess of carbon monoxide present. The engineerguy has a video on it if I recall correctly.
https://youtu.be/oFUUQcpGR3k

Well, the idea is for me to make one, just to learn and with the Arduino modules, there are beginner tutorials. A normal smoke detector wouldn't work because it's normal for the kitchen to get smokey, I'll stick a PIR to it and a buzzer (Nano + Gás detector + buzzer + PIR), the pir will turn off the alarm when a person is present. Also, a button with a timer to give a 30m delay, giving time for the smoke to disperse ...

It's one of the projects I'll just have to make because I'm getting my experience in this small projects. I can't recall the times I made something and then brake it apart to make something else, just to follow a tutorial and learn by experience.

Btw @Condor Thanks for the engineer guy channel, lots of good videos for me to watch.

This is something my mom will like, my father never bought and I can feel appreciated by my work.

@Condor check this out:

https://youtube.com/watch/...

Looks like a cartoon. I must do some stop motion shit... Loved it

@GyroGearloose that's quite the Jugaad solution to a lack of slow motion cam 😜 Practical Engineering is a great channel though.

As for the smoke detector, how about using a remote to turn it on and off instead? There's these IR sensors which you can control using a TV remote or any IR LED really. Also I think that fire alarm systems can have a built-in timer before they report to the fire department. In my apartment it's about 1h if I recall correctly.. my concierge once told me about it. The elderly people on the floors below often make mistakes in their kitchens though, so that could have played a part in it.. not sure. Anyway, they only respond to carbon monoxide so things like solder fumes don't seem to trigger it 🤔

Loved the idea... That or using Bluetooth... Already used a IR led to read command codes just for kicks, only need a good remote. (the cheap ones seams to generate different codes for the same key, don't understand why.. Do you know?)
Went shopping for my next diy :p

@GyroGearloose if you want a good remote, I'd just build my own to be honest. IR LEDs are relatively easy to drive because their forward voltage drop is very low. So you can hook it straight up to your MCU (through an appropriate resistor) and control it just like any LED. I'd do configuration with a regular red LED though to be able to see what it's doing more easily. Afterwards switch the red LED for an IR one, increase the resistor value appropriately and you're golden 🙂

Edit: in case you didn't know already, you can use your phone's camera to see what an IR LED is doing.

Even better, my phone also as IR, can make a remote and a app to also control it trough the phone... But that may be a little to much... Or may be easy, don't know till I try it

@GyroGearloose ah, even better 🙂 I'm sure that there's some IR remote apps that allow you to set custom patterns too. Have a look!

I actually already have some for Bluetooth, and with app inventor u can make my own Aps easy. But I don't have one for IR... Good ideia, and I can still have a remote... Maby I'll build a modular one for several devices...
Already going to do a power box from a psu, the principle isn't that different... Just have to research more...

But my phone comes with a IR remote... And my first IR project was to read key codes... Not all that different to read the emitted signals...

@404response @Condor what's best way to pass small and large junks of data at close distance? Between IR, Bluetooth and direct Wi-Fi? Thanks

:( only find how twos for each protocol, can't belive no one asked that question before.
Used : "what's better for wireless data arduino" as search... Am I searching wrong? Wrong keywords? Or people don't really ask such questions? :(

@GyroGearloose high frequency radio (with whatever protocol sits on top of it) has low propagation radius but high bandwidth 🙂

For low bandwidth communications you may be interested in BLE, for high bandwidth I'd go with WiFi, preferably at 5GHz.

Ok, so three cenários, one I just need to push 1kb from one meter away, or maby just 1b
(ex: activate something, like a button but from the cellphone or remote control) , on the other hand pushing like 5mb also at close range (best way to protect a arduino cnc is to cover everything, if I don't want wires, maby by or wi-fi? ) . 3 scenario, passing bits at long range (for drones, I'm thinking on a very cute one for my nephew from a kids truck )

For the first 2 scenarios you could use the aforementioned methods, for drones on the other hand you'll want low frequency, a few kHz. Be careful though as only a few frequency ranges are ISM bands, everything else is reserved for civil services like air traffic control, army, and some others for HAM radio operators. And for custom drone designs you'll also want to know the basics of radio.

@Condor oh the problem is that I didn't understood you the first time... For 1 and two, between Bluetooth and infrared?
I don't want to build a flying Drone due to the law, just need to go up to 100m in clear sight... And mostly land drones and robots, later I might use it when I get to the big machines...

@Condor or did you ment something else?

@GyroGearloose WiFi is good at big transfers over short distance, Bluetooth Low Energy is good at small transfers that only occur periodically and need to be power-efficient, IR is good for itsy-bitsy small transfers that are only a couple of bits large.

@Condor thank you... I already had such notions, but it's a lot better to know for sure then to have a few more projects break down due to lack of knowledge (first projects were almost all a bust).
There is something that almost no hobbyist isn't doing in the automatic machines that is the most important... Aspiration and table cleansing...
Guess my skills as a CNC operator may be helpful when I start doing tutorials and videos... To bring what for me is basic knowledge, like how the machine should work, what it needs...
Did you know that to drill metal one should use water with oil? Didn't see that in any arduino video so far... Maby I'll bring different stuff. And that's good for everyone

@GyroGearloose today I learnt 😋 oil+water for cutting/drilling metal.. Thanks for this nibble of knowledge! 😊

Yep, air for milling, soluble oil for drills, and always peck (make the drill come out to clean every 3mm for hard steel, 5m for soft steel and I would recommend only air + pecking for wood (woodpaste sucks)

PS: if you have a dog or cat wood waste is great for the sand box, or outside spread it on the floor after washing. Absorbes the urin and smell way better that perfumed sand.

@Condor Hey, new question, this I would prefer to hear from someone who knows.

For a Lipo Charger module, can I use it to power something while charging? Like have it on an Arduino board powering everything, just plug the USB cable when the battery is low without needing to turn everything off.

I have a few of those: https://aliexpress.com/item/...

And just bought one of: https://aliexpress.com/store/...

Btw you might like to check these:

https://aliexpress.com/item/...

Already bought a few to make projects using solar power, maby wind power also on winter

@GyroGearloose it depends. Haven't looked into the design of a common charge controller that much but I've heard somewhere long ago that it'd require 2 coils to be present.. to step down and step up voltage simultaneously. Not that that's how I'd do it. I'd build the circuit to allow for bypassing the controller stage altogether. Why bother if input and output USB are both 5V anyway? Haven't tested this sort of design though, so I could be wrong. Perhaps it's got some significant flaws and that's why it's not used in commercial designs.. I don't know.

Well, the batteries are 3.7 (max 4.2v) , so to use the battery I need some kind of controller (with two batteries, up to 8.4v. I ordered one for 3 batteries to test, from 10V; max 12.6V) I can power the Arduino and any accessory and charge it through power supply or even solar panels.

Think on a surveillance system with a PIR, camera, wi-fi shield and a few more info, maby a clock, that sends a picture every 5sec to the server when a person is detected. This should be a good example, I could power it when the battery is out, Or most likely get a sonal panel together that charges from a variable voltage, from 4V to 8V (need the more expensive module for that because of the range of Volts) , Mount it at the back entry and forget about it till I get notifies ...

If it's cost worthy I can even mount some to sell and make some money.

Best duckducky I found is https://extremetech.com/computing/...

:( Man... Am I really the only one asking such questions?