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// https://andyhemingway.files.wordpress.com/...
calling_the_herd(3D Printer)
{
User[ ] = { @Haxk20 , @vane , @ScriptCoded , @geaz , @Codex404 , @doofy , @borderless , @Mizz141 , }
}
// If you want to me removed or changed to other category leave a reply -
Is your bed still leveled?
Do you have more than just that roll of black filament? If so try it out, otherwise I suggest buying a new roll, to see if the issue is indeed the filament.
If it would be the filament I personally would use it for things that don't mind if it's warped a bit.
I also noticed for myself that room temperature is also a big influence on the quality of your print. 20 degrees sticks fine, but as soon as it's 15 degrees it sticks less well. -
@Codex404 I level the bed on every print. It's the fillament because the one I got before worked fine. Already ordered another from the same store... (cristal), Hope it works better than this one.
I'll check local stores tomorow for prices, I'll probably get a bed stricker If not to expensive (already ordered from China but takes a month).
.
Question, If I lower the noozle heat, does it stick better? Using 210C now. Was using 190C with the white fillament.
Should I try to move the noozle up 0.1mm and try again? I ear the noozle scrapping the pieces sometimes while printing. -
@GyroGearloose Nozzle scraping the piece is a bad thing. It can damage the nozzle.
About the filament, can you link me the webshop you bought it from?
Does your filament have a steady flow? -
@Codex404 It does have a steady flow, It starts printing perfectly, does a few mms like it shoud, then It starts warping... It's every wierd.
And I can't only stick it with a large ammount of glue, while the white fillament only needed airspray.
https://aliexpress.com/item/...
I have the black and ordered the cristal.
Recomended temp for black 220C to 260C.
But the white I had before, recomended temp was 230C but worked fine at 190C
BTW I only use PLA -
@GyroGearloose Is there a reason to get it from China? Because I just looked at the price and it's not that much cheaper than I can get it for in the Netherlands. (It's like 3 euros more on a roll of 1kg), but in that case I have a next day delivery and good customer service (if I ever had an issue like you have right now I would be able to send back my filament and either get another brand or a refund).
I've got no experience with filament from China, but I will see if I can find something about that brand (I have seen a video about it somewhere) -
@Codex404 Well, I'll check the prices on local stores tomorow, and start searching online for local stores.
Btw whats the store you use? -
FUCKKKKKKKKKKKKKKKK
1 minute search on Worten (a local chainstore)
Exactly the same price as from China.
FUCKKKKK
Not ordering more consumables from China.
I know now where to go tomorow.´
Well, white brand is the same price, add 10€ for a branded one... :D -
Mizz14176286yThis looks like PLA but with ABS mixed into it, heat your bed to 80°C and your nozzle to 220, AFTER heating up to print temp level it, AND ONLY AFTER!
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@Mizz141 The mix of PLA and ABS explains it...
Furling is in Australia? Do you know an European store? -
I can't heat the bed above 60C... Maybe firmware block?
Printer is an Anet A8 (Pursa clone)
Using merlin -
@GyroGearloose I order from a local Dutch webstore (mostly known for their printer ink), but they also have a sister company which deals in 3d printer things like filament, but also replacement parts I don't think they deliver outside of The Netherlands (and maybe Belgium?) https://123-3d.nl
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@Codex404 Their prices are great but I can't order outside Netherlands/Belgium
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Mizz14176286y@GyroGearloose Yes Australia, Ive gotten their Filament from Kickstarter tho, they are now selling it on EBay, you could contact them and ask if you could have a roll...
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@Mizz141 I would pay more for the transport than the filament. There must be other good supliers....
What do you guys think on BQ?
It's €20 for 1kg here -
doofy13486y@GyroGearloose Sharp corners tend to peel off early if you have bad adhesion, maybe try to round the outer edges
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Well, warping has to do with uneven stress in the print. It can be caused by several reasons, but usually it has to do with bad heating. In that case you probably have too high temperature for your filament. It could also be that the ambient temperature is too low and cools of the newly heated filament too quickly. I built a case for my printer, keeping in the heat and therefore increasing the ambient temperature. An easy solution is just to use cardboard or plastic to build a rudimentary box.
You talked about nozzle scraping, which is never a good thing. Not speaking from experience now, but I would definitely look in to that. From what I know it shouldn't have too big of an impact on warping, but as you progress onto higher layers of your print you will most likely encounter bad sticking between your layers. -
Well, good news, already got new fillament (Bq, Cristal), trying this afternoon.
I messed so much with the settings than yes, It can be overheat. I was printing at 190C on the first filament and got up to 220C in the black filament (now 210C). still, not going to waste all that polimer. I could retest everything, but since it doesn't stick even with permanent spray glue... (maybe if I got the bet at 80C as sugested, but I think the firmware blocks it above 60C)
Btw, when on the intervew for the new formation I might be doing in eletronics and robotics.... So excited. -
Mizz14176286y@GyroGearloose For fixing the "Cant heat bed over 60°C issue" Simply reflash marlin onto the printer, but before configure it properly...
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@Mizz141 Nah... took me 3 days the first time, I'll do it when I upgrade the machine (works good for now, making the pieces to upgrade it). But by messing with the menus found where I can change the temperature anytime in the program.
Tested one more time with the black fillament, only glue stick + air spray, noozle at 200C, bed at 80C and didn't even stick the brim.
Got a new fillament , BQ cristal. leveled the bed, didn't stick (noozle 205C, bed 60C) , so I heated the bed to 80C, leveled the bed at 0 and voila. (btw I really do 0, tryed doing 0.1 with papper and didn't stick, 0 plus 80C worked)
Thanks everyone, learned a lot these days.
Btw I'm just lazy, with bootload it takes one hour to flash again lol maybe tomorow. -
Yep, it was the filament...
Using the same files I had prepared (with the extra brim and all) and I already have a perfect piece. With the table at 80C it almost doesn't need glue :D -
@GyroGearloose I only print PLA on my Flashforge Finder (not a kit, closed source unfortunately). Only for things that are like 2mm thick I need glue on my buildplate (non heated)
Im thinking of buying a Velleman Vertex Delta printer soon. -
@Mizz141 Bah... The only upgrade, besides corrections and self-printed pieces will be a sleeve for the bed, other than that... I'll wait till I buy a better one. (Was already thinking on giving this one to my brother when I get a better one, he already ordered one for himself lol and found a better one for the price)
Btw, the BQ filament is giving better prints than the white, no glue needed, to take out the piece I just need to heat the bed... No more Chinese consumables.
Probably gonna buy a new roll this week, my brother already has a 400g print for me lol
Related Rants
3D printer
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Hey guys, continuing the yesterday's topic...
https://devrant.com/rants/1879193/...
This is the result of all I learned and tested yesterday.
Problem: new black filament from China.
Result, piece is bent and cracked.
Resolution: 0,2
Temp: 210C
Bed: 60C
Brim: fucking 25 mm
Inicial speed 20 mm/s
Adesion: glue stick + airspray + permanent glue spray
And the pieces still fucking bend in the table contact side.
Top is perfect except for some cracks, but the bellow side is just pressed to itself and bends, warping the piece.
What could I change now? What could be the problem and reason for this? Worked perfectly with the first white filament.
question
3d printer
bad prints