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So I visited my aunt's house a few days back.
They heard I write code (read: Google and copy-paste from Stack Overflow), and wanted me to help repair their computers.
Saw my cousin playing Battlefield 4 at sub-20 fps with a GTX 750 Ti on the lowest settings. His fucking CPU fan was bust, and judging by the amount of dust in his system, I literally thought he was cramming dust in there on purpose.
After a heavy dusting, another stick of RAM (4GB -> 12GB), a new heatsink (CoolerMaster T400i), and a fresh copy of Windows 10 (along with Office, etc.), he could play games at 60+ fps again.
What do I get? Not even a fucking thank you. Just a "you done yet? I want to play video games."
I mean... Gee. Your cousin flew all the way to a new continent, spent his precious vacation time helping you out, and all he gets is a cold-ass shoulder.
Even my fucking ex gave me more than that.16 -
A fucking wasp bit me and now (after heating up the affected area thoroughly) I'm keeping it cool like a true nerd.
9 -
Yet another rant about crappy electronic designs.
Just now I was cleaning my desk and stumbled upon some old hard drive in a caddy that I still had laying around.. I figured, let's plug it in and see whether the drive still works. And to some extent, it does! Except that every few minutes it craps out on me. And after disassembling the caddy, I think that I know why.
Just as background information, hard drives work at 12V and generally require about 10W to spin their motor. Meanwhile USB operates at 5V. So a boost converter needs to be present in the controller to step up the voltage and power the drive.
Now what's a boost converter? It's an inductor, a capacitor, a transistor and a diode in a specific arrangement (if you're interested in the design, check out https://youtube.com/watch/...), along with feedback circuitry to stabilize output voltage. Now that transistor is important.. it switches at very high frequency, and its rise and fall times create heat. In the particular transistor used in that controller, it apparently causes the transistor to operate at 65-68°C. That's quite toasty IMO, and overheating may be why the controller is so unstable. But the Chinese manufacturers thought that it's just fine and okay to be sold without heatsink or some research into transistors with better rise and fall times.
So the hard drive craps out on me and yet again it's because of certified shitdesigns. MOTHERFUCKTURERS!!!!27 -
I've just disassembled this LED floodlight that I bought a while ago. It's some stupid little cheapie from a dollar store, so I figured that there'd be shit inside. But I wanted that LED cob.. a power LED :3
Well, shit wasn't too far off from the truth. The component choice is reasonable, but the design of the bloody thing.. batshit insane. The LED floodlight is powered by 4 AAA batteries, connected in series. So 6VDC. That then goes into this little tactile pushbutton, into the LED cob and then a 4.7 ohm resistor.
Well that's a pretty easy circuit.. let's remove the batteries and the casement, and put it on the lab bench power supply. Probes connected to the circuit with only the resistor and the LED cob in between (I didn't want to deal with the switch). Power supply set to 6V, current limiting to 500mA, contact!! And it works, amazing! So I let it run for a while to see that nothing gets too hot.. hah. After a minute or so, smoke would come out.. LED cob was a bit warm to the touch but nothing too bad. But the resistor.. I could cook water on it if I wanted to! 100 fucking °C, and rising. What the F yo?!
So I figured that I didn't want to put the resistor in between there. Just the LED cob now, which apparently has a forward voltage somewhere between 3.2V and 3.3V depending on how I set the current (500mA and 600mA respectively). Needed a bigger heatsink though, so I jammed one of my aluminium heatsinks on there. And it worked great! Very bright too, as it takes between 1.6 and 2W of power. Just for a comparison, the lighting in my living room is 4x5W and the ones on top of my dining table are 2x3W (along with some TL bar that my landlord put there.. fluorescent I think). So yeah, 2W is quite a lot for an LED, especially when it's all concentrated into one tiny spot.
That said, back to the original design with the resistor. 2 questions I have for that moron that designed this crap. First, why use a resistor for a power LED?! They needlessly waste power, and aren't good choices for anything that consumes more than 100mA. You should use PWM for these purposes, or tune your voltage on the supply side. Second, why go with 6V when your forward voltage is 3.3 at most? Wouldn't it make more sense to use 3 batteries with 4.5V? Ah, but I know the answer to the second one. AAA cells aren't rated for high loads like this. So that's likely why the alkaline cells that I had in there before have started leaking. Thanks, certified piece of shit!
Honestly, consumer electronics are such a joke... At least there's some components that I can salvage from this crap. Mainly the LED cob, but also the resistor and the tactile pushbutton perhaps.
One last remark that I'd like to make. This floodlight was cheap garbage. But considering that you can't do it well at that price, you just shouldn't do it. You know why? Because consumers always go for the cheapest. Makes a lot of money to build at rock bottom prices and make shit, but it damages the whole industry, since now the good designs will go out of business. That's why consumer electronics is so full of crap nowadays. Some unethical profiteering gluttons saw money, and they replaced the whole assortment with nothing but garbage. I'm sure that there's a special place in hell for that kind of people.17 -
Alright. Two dead Commodores.
Over 15 years before I was born? ✅
No idea how BASIC works? ✅
Internet at the ready? ✅
So far I've checked various chips for visible damage, and nothing except a blown fuse on both machines. Apparently it takes dual 9vAC and single 5vDC. The 9 powers the SID and the video output, the VIC-II heatsink is off, and I've tested the PSU voltages and one of the 9v's is dead. I'll be getting new fuses and a new PSU soon. Any recommendations on other things to check or things to do when they're done? Pic included because why not.
12 -
Difference between Thermal Paste And Thermal Pads
As we all know that the surface of the CPU or a heat sink is not flat. So the uneven surface of both types of equipment give rise to the small gaps, and these small gaps are poor in thermal conductivity, as a result, the Gaming Computer gets heated off quickly.
To fill these gap we require a thermal conductive which delivers the entire heat coming out from the CPU to the heatsink and there comes the role of Thermal paste or Thermal pads for more info about thermal paste see here (https://glinkster.com/best-thermal-...)
But the real question here is which should you chose to avoid heating problems? Is it either thermal paste or thermal pads? So without wasting much time let's get to know what are the basic differences and when you should apply what?
What is the difference between thermal paste and thermal pads?
Thermal paste or thermal compound actually it has a lot of names. Thermal paste is a greasy conductive paste directly applied to the heatsink. It is most commonly used as the interface in between the non-conductive parts for the cooling purpose. A good thermal paste made with the best quality of thermal compound can work well for the system. To apply thermal paste, you have to very careful as you have can also sometimes drop it near to the main CPU. But this is not the only option to fill the holes in between the CPU and the heatsink, there is one more thing that you can use is Thermal Pads.
Thermal Pads
Thermal pads are easy to put as compare to thermal pastes. But they are not as effective as compare to the thermal paste. You will find some stock coolers come with thermal pads as it looks clean. If sometimes you have to replace the heatsink, then you have to remove the pad too. So remember whenever you remove the heatsink ot dismount it, always change the thermal pad.
Common Mistakes you have to avoid
There are some common mistakes that a lot of people make while applying the thermal paste or thermal pads.
1) Never use thermal paste and thermal pads together.
2) But you can use thermal paste on the top of the thermal pads to improve the efficiency.
3) Use of two or three pads altogether can kill the performance of the CPU.
10 -
Fuck. I'm fucking alive. The past month or so has been hectic. I've mainly been working, sleeping, or at school (not like I've showed up much lately anyways, maybe 12 days or so since the middle of February).
!dev
I'm fucking tired.
Bought an FX 8350 with the Wraith cooler for my desktop, got it for $70 when normally it's about $140 or so. Gonna replace the PSU and case when I get paid on Saturday, cause I don't have to pay anything with this check, so it's all to myself. Cut myself putting a heatsink back on my motherboard, still hurts 3 days later.
My "best friend" is still not talking to me. But she's been talking ABOUT me. Oh well. Nothing I can do about it now. I'm done with the whole situation with her. It's just her crying over every little thing.
My rants tend to be about my personal life, and this one is no exception. I just have a lot of shit going on and I need to get it out sometimes.1 -
A new and shiny microprocessor looks too beautiful to get it dirty with thermal paste and cover it with a heatsink.9
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Guess what my old Windows 8.1 laptop and a Nintendo 64 have in common?
Neither have a goddamn fan or a CMOS battery!!! I shit you not, I opened up my old windows 8.1 computer from like 2012 and it did not have a fan. Instead it had a large piece of metal connected to a CPU as a heatsink. It also never had a CMOS battery since the solder pads have never been used.
7 -
I decided to do a daily Blender render just as a creative challenge for myself. I was so excited because I built an awesome computer this year and was eager to put it to use, only to be hit with seemingly random BSODs and crashes a couple seconds into the render.
As it turns out, my CPU cooler is woefully inadequate to handle 32 threads running at once, which was the cause of my crashes. Turning the render threads down to 8 keeps the temps low enough to finish the render.
In a way, it's a relief because the alternative was a problem with my $900 GPU. I've ordered a bigger CPU cooler and well reviewed heatsink paste which will hopefully fix it. If not, I'm going to have to go water-cooled, which I really don't want to do.34 -
Concerning my last post on the two Commodores, (https://devrant.com/rants/963917/...) here's the great story behind the boxed one.
So at the place where I interned over the summer, I helped the tech dept. (IT herein) move to a new bldg. We had to dismantle most of the network infrastructure stuff, so we were in the server room a lot. First day on the job, Boss shows me server room, I'm amazed and all because this is my first real server room lol.
We walk around, and there's a Commodore 64 box on a table, just kinda there. I ask, "Uh, is that actually a C64?" B: "Yeah, that's E's." Me: "E?" (name obfuscated) B: "Yeah, E's a little crazy." Me: "Is it actually in there?" B: "Absolutely, check it out!" *opens box and sees my jaw drop* Me: "Well, alrighty then!" So that lingers in my mind for a while until I meet E. He is a fuckin hilarious guy, personifying the C64, making obscure and professionally inappropriate references. Everyone loves him, until he pranks them. He always did.
We’re in the server room, wiping some Cisco switches or something, and we have some downtime, so I ask him about the 64, and he's like "Yeah, I haven't had time to diagnose her issues much. If you want her, go ahead, see if you can make it work!" Me: "You're kidding, right?" E: "Nah, not at all!"
That day I walked out with a server motherboard, 2 Xeon CPUs and some RAM for the server (all from an e-waste bin, approved for me to take home from boss) and a boxed C64. Did a multimeter test on the PSU pins, one of the 9vAC pins is effectively dead (1.25v fluctuating? No thanks.) but everything else is fine except for a loose heatsink and a blown fuse in each C64. Buying the parts tonight. I wanna see this thing work!1 -
Alot of hacks around here!
An extract of some of those:
-Couldn't time the shutter right when photographing lightning. Used my oscilloscope to measure its electrical influence and anytime a peak is detected, it actuates the shutter.
-Using a lock as a heatsink for a overheating display driver ic.
-Hacking two USB ports together to get more power.
-Display module was too tall with header pins. Moved its back components to the main board and soldered the module flat onto it by flowing solder down its connecting holes.
-Not me but still interesting: Back on ye olde times when paid tv contained a disruptive H or VSYNC signal only their paid tv box could filter, my electronics prof. analyzed it and built the required comb filter on his own. Even sold some on the black market. -
Put heatsink straight back on the CPU with the 4 year old thermal paste; what could possibly go wrong right 😅2
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This is interesting from a troubleshooting point of view. I have a decent laptop I use to play Fallout 4. It was running just fine until recently. The game will spike GPU activity and crash. I found if I reduced settings and lower resolution it happens less often.
I kept searching and finally found someone saying it could be GPU thermal compound has worn out. So I looked how to change that on a laptop. The video I found it looked fairly easy.
I get into my laptop and I find all the screws for the heatsink/head pipe assembly. However there is a ton of thermal tape used everywhere holding it all down. I think if I am not careful I will break the heat sink. I did pull on the main part and it just didn't want to give.
Feeling a bit defeated as I put everything back together. I had gotten some decent thermal compound for this. So I fire up the game and it runs fine at the low settings. Then I raise all the settings to max with max resolution. This was crashing the game the last few days. It just runs and runs fine on those settings. GPU temps look normal (they did before, but I wanted to see). So, all I can think the act of lifting the heat sink a small amount may have reseated the thermal compound a bit. I am still going to price out a professional doing this, but I can play on max settings again. Maybe messing with screws on GPU and slightly moving the heat sink actually did something.
This confirms to me that something needs done about the thermal compound. The company I bought the laptop from offered custom thermal compound at time of purchase. So I am thinking they can do this for me. It will be cheaper to pay a couple hundred bucks to have a pro do this rather than pay $1800 for a new computer. This is only 2 1/2 years old. It has been a top performer up til now.6 -
The combination of an AIO cooler and liquid metal heatsink paste and a processor that isn't broken has really done wonders for my productivity.
An unexpected side effect of having a machine that can operate under load without instantly blue screening or crashing is that the room it is in turns into an oven pretty quickly.
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